The Trollstigen

It was in the Trollstigen pass that it all finally came together. We became the two wheeled cyborg. The first time a saw the pass I just slowed to a stop and muttered "oh shit". I have ridden the passes of the Alps and northern Spain, but the Trollstigen is unique. It is a perfect staircase up the near vertical face of a cliff. You can see every riser from the bottom, with the tour bus and campers making their way up it like toys on a children's miniature layout. Honestly I would have been more confident with a rope and climbing gear. It was one of the riding highlights of my tour. I came here to do this. First I took a ten minute rest to allow a tour bus to climb the ladder. Two campers vans were arriving, so I set off. On every hairpin the bike was horizontal. On a big tourer I got close to getting my knee down. The big boxer engine growled, booming off the rock face, and stuck behind a van the clutch burned a little. I made an unavoidable overtake which should have been hairy, but really thought nothing. Thinking would have undone me. I would have hesitated and stalled out. My BMW horn stopped one bus reversing onto me, then the hill start from hell. Elsa howled her displeasure. Jane's maps in the cockpit provided radar like views aiding and giving confidence. If I was thinking at all it was only spatial awareness. Angle of attack, speed, time off arrival. Then I reached the top. I flew by the seat of my pants. Gift shops and ice. I stopped to get the badge for the bike to prove we were here. At this point I met the only other bike I have seen with a UK plate. More lunatics let out of the asylum!

It doesn't matter which way you approach Geiranger, it is spectacular. Deep and sheer, Geiranger fjord is the most dramatic. You can ride from fjord to fjord and it doesn't get any better. Exhausted again I took a cabin for two nights. Tomorrow involves walking boots and a boat to cruise the fjord.