Saturday, 21 August 2010
Bombay Mix
If my plans for the winter come to fruition I will be creating a new blog towards the end of the year. I have itchy feet and I can feel Goa and a Royal Enfield calling me. Watch out for "Bombay Mix". Other than a base in Goa, and an Enfield, I have no idea what will happen. As ever, the road will write the story.
Thursday, 19 August 2010
Elsa
I'm due to pick her up from the dealer this afternoon. The clutch was totally shot at. I have had the bike from new April 2006. No one else has ridden her. The mileage is 25000. The repair bill over £1030. I am upset (huge understatement). The bike is out of warranty which would not cover a clutch anyway.
The dealer asked for a contribution towards costs from BMW. BMW declined. My riding style is blamed. In all of my years of motorcycling I have never burnt a clutch out. My riding style now is calmer and more gentle with my machine than ever before. I am a 53 year old tourer.
Apart from the horrendous repair bill, the dilemma I face is this. I believe that the bike arrived with a bad clutch. That is actually the best scenario, because if that is the case I can hope that the new one will last more than the joke 25000 I have had from this one. I am an international tourer likely to do large mileages going forward. I cannot support a machine no matter how gorgeous and well loved, if I face a £1000 repair bill every three years. The worst case is that the RT eats clutches and therefore despite its fantastic ergonomic design and great handling, is not fit for purpose.
It is with a very heavy heart, and in a grumpy mood that I go to fetch her.
I will ride out again next year. In the mean time I have some serious thinking to do. BMW dealers are also thin on the ground in Sweden.
The dealer asked for a contribution towards costs from BMW. BMW declined. My riding style is blamed. In all of my years of motorcycling I have never burnt a clutch out. My riding style now is calmer and more gentle with my machine than ever before. I am a 53 year old tourer.
Apart from the horrendous repair bill, the dilemma I face is this. I believe that the bike arrived with a bad clutch. That is actually the best scenario, because if that is the case I can hope that the new one will last more than the joke 25000 I have had from this one. I am an international tourer likely to do large mileages going forward. I cannot support a machine no matter how gorgeous and well loved, if I face a £1000 repair bill every three years. The worst case is that the RT eats clutches and therefore despite its fantastic ergonomic design and great handling, is not fit for purpose.
It is with a very heavy heart, and in a grumpy mood that I go to fetch her.
I will ride out again next year. In the mean time I have some serious thinking to do. BMW dealers are also thin on the ground in Sweden.
Thursday, 12 August 2010
Recovery
I've been home two weeks now. It passes so quickly. Last Friday my bike was recovered to the BMW dealership to assess the clutch. It needs replacing. What a sad day for a fantastic motorcycle. I got seriously saddle sore with this journey, but I miss Elsa hugely. I am waiting to find out whether BMW will make a good will gesture. I didn't extend the two year warranty, but there is a known manufacturing fault on this new Boxer. I await their decision before writing further on the subject.
Personally I have slept and eaten a lot. My body weight is back up to where it should be, and my sleeping patterns and energy levels are back to normal. I have tight tendons in my legs so I guess I'm due to put effort into walks to get my flexibility back. It was a hell of a long time in the saddle !
Contact with friends from the trip, and those of you who have followed me, continues to delight. Thank you.
Personally I have slept and eaten a lot. My body weight is back up to where it should be, and my sleeping patterns and energy levels are back to normal. I have tight tendons in my legs so I guess I'm due to put effort into walks to get my flexibility back. It was a hell of a long time in the saddle !
Contact with friends from the trip, and those of you who have followed me, continues to delight. Thank you.
Tuesday, 3 August 2010
The Long Road Home
A bad incident on the return journey has caused me problems for several days. I have recovered now and it doesn't seem right not to describe my final homeward journey. Bikers and drivers may want the information it provides.
A reminder of my outward route for comparison. Harwich - Esbjerg, west to east across central Denmark, crossing into Sweden at Malmo via the tunnel and bridge.
I left Domsand with a slippy clutch at 09:00 last Tuesday. As long as I didn't try to turn on too much power it was OK. Long slow overtakes only. My route took me south to the ferry Helsingborg - Helsinger, then due south to the ferry to Germany at Rodby. I broke my journey after 300 miles.
At 05:00 I was back on the road having had no sleep. I knew that tiredness would end my day early. I had 400 miles to the ferry, and probably couldn't make it. Most likely I was going to miss the ferry. I knocked off 100 miles fast, before an early breakfast with lots of black coffee. I ran on Adrenalin until that point. I washed and shaved at a truck stop then eased back into the North German motorway system. It is every bit as crowded and aggressive as the south of England. Torrential rain at 09:00 forced me off the road for 45 minutes during which genuine tiredness began to seep in. I reasoned that since there was no wind, the down poor wasn't slowing, and my understanding of the days weather was isolated showers, I should get into it and try to ride through it and out the other side. I got drowned for an hour, but I was right. I stopped for a brew at 11:00. Warm sunshine lifted the water off my outer suit as steam. I hadn't seen a service station in 40 miles and I needed caffeine. The solution was to boil up strong tea in a rest area, much to the delight of some other travellers, I was definitely being English. Another hour and lunch over the border into the Netherlands. Their motorways are as bad as the Germans and English. Northern Europe is getting very crowded.
Beyond lunch it got really hard. Another 50 miles and my eyes were closing. A stop for water and to walk around. Another 20 miles and I nodded off on the bike. I swooped, limped into a rest area where the Dutch truck driver watched over me. I slept in my leathers, flat on my back, on a grass verge near his truck. I was definitely on the edge at this point. I washed to wake myself up and finished the last 40 miles to the port. I missed a turning. GPS Jane is mute, and I couldn't make sense of her attempted corrections. A novel solution. I followed the signposts to the ferry !!
Fish and chips at the terminal were good, and only spoiled by a truly crazy Englishman who sat down at my little table on the pavement, and leaned into my face to enthusiastically reminisce about England. I told him I was very tired and in poor humour, and asked to be left with my fish and chips. He "skedaddled".
Lessons learnt. Ferries sap your energy and eat time. Even if there is a slight financial saving, a good bridge gets you on your way faster and fresher. The route home through Germany is a slog. The Danish route through Esbjerg is nice. For the sake of £50 I'll use the Esbjerg route when I return to Sweden. I need to find out if IKEA sell Senapsill!! I have acquired a taste for raw herrings apparently.
If you feel the need to do Nordkapp, do it! Watch your speed in Norway and be prepared for ridiculously low speeds for very long journeys. Take warm clothing, sun block and mosquito repellent. Would I go back? I've already been, so no, probably not. It was awesome though.
I have a couple of speaking engagements so will hopefully take funds raised for Myton over the £1000 eventually.
A reminder of my outward route for comparison. Harwich - Esbjerg, west to east across central Denmark, crossing into Sweden at Malmo via the tunnel and bridge.
I left Domsand with a slippy clutch at 09:00 last Tuesday. As long as I didn't try to turn on too much power it was OK. Long slow overtakes only. My route took me south to the ferry Helsingborg - Helsinger, then due south to the ferry to Germany at Rodby. I broke my journey after 300 miles.
At 05:00 I was back on the road having had no sleep. I knew that tiredness would end my day early. I had 400 miles to the ferry, and probably couldn't make it. Most likely I was going to miss the ferry. I knocked off 100 miles fast, before an early breakfast with lots of black coffee. I ran on Adrenalin until that point. I washed and shaved at a truck stop then eased back into the North German motorway system. It is every bit as crowded and aggressive as the south of England. Torrential rain at 09:00 forced me off the road for 45 minutes during which genuine tiredness began to seep in. I reasoned that since there was no wind, the down poor wasn't slowing, and my understanding of the days weather was isolated showers, I should get into it and try to ride through it and out the other side. I got drowned for an hour, but I was right. I stopped for a brew at 11:00. Warm sunshine lifted the water off my outer suit as steam. I hadn't seen a service station in 40 miles and I needed caffeine. The solution was to boil up strong tea in a rest area, much to the delight of some other travellers, I was definitely being English. Another hour and lunch over the border into the Netherlands. Their motorways are as bad as the Germans and English. Northern Europe is getting very crowded.
Beyond lunch it got really hard. Another 50 miles and my eyes were closing. A stop for water and to walk around. Another 20 miles and I nodded off on the bike. I swooped, limped into a rest area where the Dutch truck driver watched over me. I slept in my leathers, flat on my back, on a grass verge near his truck. I was definitely on the edge at this point. I washed to wake myself up and finished the last 40 miles to the port. I missed a turning. GPS Jane is mute, and I couldn't make sense of her attempted corrections. A novel solution. I followed the signposts to the ferry !!
Fish and chips at the terminal were good, and only spoiled by a truly crazy Englishman who sat down at my little table on the pavement, and leaned into my face to enthusiastically reminisce about England. I told him I was very tired and in poor humour, and asked to be left with my fish and chips. He "skedaddled".
Lessons learnt. Ferries sap your energy and eat time. Even if there is a slight financial saving, a good bridge gets you on your way faster and fresher. The route home through Germany is a slog. The Danish route through Esbjerg is nice. For the sake of £50 I'll use the Esbjerg route when I return to Sweden. I need to find out if IKEA sell Senapsill!! I have acquired a taste for raw herrings apparently.
If you feel the need to do Nordkapp, do it! Watch your speed in Norway and be prepared for ridiculously low speeds for very long journeys. Take warm clothing, sun block and mosquito repellent. Would I go back? I've already been, so no, probably not. It was awesome though.
I have a couple of speaking engagements so will hopefully take funds raised for Myton over the £1000 eventually.
Sunday, 1 August 2010
The Pictures are Published
HI all
Sorry if my achievement is a little rough and ready. The whole blog is now illustrated with the appropriate (or inappropriate) pictures added. You have to back through the whole blog therefore to see them. At least this way you have text alongside to help explain what they all are.
I had an idea and I'd like to hear from any geeks amongst you (in the nicest possible way). How do you set up a chat site? A forum to discuss and pursue ideas, conversation threads. I've seen it done with club web sites. The idea I had comes from realising just how many people from different countries are reading this. I want a forum where we can compare our different ideas and experiences. Wouldn't it be great if we could pick out the best ideas from several cultures? The ideas and observations of ordinary, real people. Fun and humour, politics, music, the weather, anything. Is this interesting?
I'm going to keep this blog going for a little while. I have an article to write for Myton, and at least two talks to deliver, also to raise money for Myton. I thought I'd charge a fee for the "regular" version, and a higher rate for the saucy version with the bad bits left in :-0
Sorry if my achievement is a little rough and ready. The whole blog is now illustrated with the appropriate (or inappropriate) pictures added. You have to back through the whole blog therefore to see them. At least this way you have text alongside to help explain what they all are.
I had an idea and I'd like to hear from any geeks amongst you (in the nicest possible way). How do you set up a chat site? A forum to discuss and pursue ideas, conversation threads. I've seen it done with club web sites. The idea I had comes from realising just how many people from different countries are reading this. I want a forum where we can compare our different ideas and experiences. Wouldn't it be great if we could pick out the best ideas from several cultures? The ideas and observations of ordinary, real people. Fun and humour, politics, music, the weather, anything. Is this interesting?
I'm going to keep this blog going for a little while. I have an article to write for Myton, and at least two talks to deliver, also to raise money for Myton. I thought I'd charge a fee for the "regular" version, and a higher rate for the saucy version with the bad bits left in :-0
Friday, 30 July 2010
End of a Journey
The ferry was good, and so was the company over a beer. A hot shower and bed for six hours. Off the ferry early on Thursday morning and the breakfast appointment with Paul and Becky. Pip. Have a great camping holiday with your mates. Be good!
My Mums face when I turned up earlier than expected, on her doorstep, was wonderful. Then slowly through the lanes of North Warwickshire. My road is peaceful and quiet, and it was good to see friends and neighbours after so long away. I slept the afternoon yesterday, and again today. So tired. Special thanks to Alan for lending an ear at 10 o clock at night, when I needed one.
The end of a journey? No. Apparently it is the beginning of a much bigger one. I have a book to write once I have figured out publishing and monetising the undertaking.
Pictures over the next few days. I promise.
My Mums face when I turned up earlier than expected, on her doorstep, was wonderful. Then slowly through the lanes of North Warwickshire. My road is peaceful and quiet, and it was good to see friends and neighbours after so long away. I slept the afternoon yesterday, and again today. So tired. Special thanks to Alan for lending an ear at 10 o clock at night, when I needed one.
The end of a journey? No. Apparently it is the beginning of a much bigger one. I have a book to write once I have figured out publishing and monetising the undertaking.
Pictures over the next few days. I promise.
Monday, 26 July 2010
Touch and Go
This trip has one more challenge for me. The clutch on the bike is on the way out. This morning I was up and down the local highway assessing the state of it. My honest opinion is that it will probably get me home. My route takes me through Hamburg, and there is a lack of dealers in Sweden. The conclusion is therefore that I should start the journey tomorrow as planned. If the clutch gets worse I may have to break my journey for a couple of days in Germany. We shall see. Worse things happen at sea.
Saturday, 24 July 2010
Domsand
I came back from the rally on Gotland exhausted. I've lost weight witch I couldn't afford to do. So I booked the cabin for a weeks holiday to recuperate. Eating, sleeping, spending time with friends who are also on holiday.
The first few days were hot and sunny. Time spent around the harbour, the rigging creaking and chinking in the gentle breeze. Ice cream on the beach. A proper holiday. Lunch with friends. Good news on Östen. He is out of hospital after having a stent done. The guy must be as strong as an ox because he took me to visit the church in Habo this afternoon. Thanks to Ida for the guided tour. The inside of the church is painted with pictures all over. Not a square inch is left undecorated. I have never seen anything quite like it. Hello in cyberspace Ida. Welcome.
Eating, sleeping, and not drinking too much beer. On Tuesday I begin the long journey home. I will never be ready to leave this place and these people, so I might as well begin. Down to Malmo. Through Denmark. Ferry to Germany, then the long road west to the Netherlands, and Hoek van Hollens. Then a boat back across the North Sea to Harwich, and a full cooked English breakfast in Cambridgeshire. I am honestly looking forward to seeing friends and family, and especially Mum.
Dinner with friends on Sunday and a great stop over, escaping from torrential rain. Finally my last few hours in Domsand and an off the cuff invite to go sailing on Lake VÄttern. rare glimpses of sunshine and the peace of 2 knotts for an hour or two. leavetakings. Tomorrow I really must leave for home.
See you all soon.
The first few days were hot and sunny. Time spent around the harbour, the rigging creaking and chinking in the gentle breeze. Ice cream on the beach. A proper holiday. Lunch with friends. Good news on Östen. He is out of hospital after having a stent done. The guy must be as strong as an ox because he took me to visit the church in Habo this afternoon. Thanks to Ida for the guided tour. The inside of the church is painted with pictures all over. Not a square inch is left undecorated. I have never seen anything quite like it. Hello in cyberspace Ida. Welcome.
Eating, sleeping, and not drinking too much beer. On Tuesday I begin the long journey home. I will never be ready to leave this place and these people, so I might as well begin. Down to Malmo. Through Denmark. Ferry to Germany, then the long road west to the Netherlands, and Hoek van Hollens. Then a boat back across the North Sea to Harwich, and a full cooked English breakfast in Cambridgeshire. I am honestly looking forward to seeing friends and family, and especially Mum.
Dinner with friends on Sunday and a great stop over, escaping from torrential rain. Finally my last few hours in Domsand and an off the cuff invite to go sailing on Lake VÄttern. rare glimpses of sunshine and the peace of 2 knotts for an hour or two. leavetakings. Tomorrow I really must leave for home.
See you all soon.
Pictures from Domsand. I love this place. Also check out www.vmck.org/
Tuesday, 20 July 2010
Bikers for Myton
I want to tell you about the wonderful thing the club here at Domsand have done. The money I owe in rent for the cabin is to go to Myton Hospice. I am totally blown away. Thank you all for what you have done.
The clever bit off the back of this is the longer I stay, the more Myton Hospice receives. I may just stay forever beside the shores of this beautiful lake.
Sincere thanks for this wonderful gift.
I need rest. I am physically exhausted. I'm sleeping 10 or 11 hours a night. I am intending to start to homeward journey next week, ..................................maybe.
Since they refuse payment, and I donate directly, we also attracted gift aid of 60.33 GBP.
The clever bit off the back of this is the longer I stay, the more Myton Hospice receives. I may just stay forever beside the shores of this beautiful lake.
Sincere thanks for this wonderful gift.
I need rest. I am physically exhausted. I'm sleeping 10 or 11 hours a night. I am intending to start to homeward journey next week, ..................................maybe.
Gotland
Friends. New friends. Old friends at home. Friends who help you out of a mess, or spend time shooting the breeze.
I rumbled back into VMCK after two days hard riding. Earnst drove over from home to let me into a cabin for the night. It would be an early start in the morning.
The lightning strike was very close. I was lying in my tent when the pressure and temperature dropped. I tasted the metal taste of Ozone and what hair I have on my head tried to stand on end. "OH shit". Nowhere to run. The strike hit behind the trees, and I slumped into my sleeping bag for a quarter hour before searching out a beer. I get ahead of myself though.
Gotland is a large island off the coast of Sweden. It's a popular, sunny, tourist destination and was on my wish list with no chance of fitting it in. Sincere thanks to the club for inviting me along. The ride out across the country to the ferry was very nice indeed. Five bikes and seven people, meeting others along the way. It is always special a gang of bikers riding onto a ferry, helping each other lash their machines to the deck plates, secure gear, and head for the cafeteria. Three hours to chill, before the hot sun of Gotland and a busy rally/meet sight.
Lots of bikes and smiling faces. Riders of all ages enjoying what we do. More a culture than a hobby. We are one tribe across all countries. It was a long weekend and if the bucket loos, heat, cold water washing, ever got us down, spare a thought for the people who put it together for us, and their wonderful hospitality. Thank you Gotland MCK.
I described the lightning strike which I remember vividly, to avoid describing the horrendous hang over I had the day before, after foolishly drinking with the Danish contingent. :-) We will do it again sometime Henrik !! I can wear one of those biker jackets with the integral airbag. I will also leave my tent open so that I don't have to figure out how it works.
Browsing around the walled town of Visby, and the ride out on Sunday with Ernst, Östen and Per. Wonderful memories. Also a night of Blues and dancing the night away with a lady biker with style. I think your bike looks wicked with the cherry blossom on the tank. I was deeply impressed.
I am now back at Domsand, Bankeryd. I have some serious sleep to catch up on. I think I have done my last crowded camp site or dorm. Flash packing and soft beds from now on. Quiet time with friends for a few days. Plan the trip home across Germany. Head home satisfied is the plan. I haven't finished here yet though. Time to relax, watch the harbour, think about that book I have never written. Would people read the rubbish I write?
I rumbled back into VMCK after two days hard riding. Earnst drove over from home to let me into a cabin for the night. It would be an early start in the morning.
The lightning strike was very close. I was lying in my tent when the pressure and temperature dropped. I tasted the metal taste of Ozone and what hair I have on my head tried to stand on end. "OH shit". Nowhere to run. The strike hit behind the trees, and I slumped into my sleeping bag for a quarter hour before searching out a beer. I get ahead of myself though.
Gotland is a large island off the coast of Sweden. It's a popular, sunny, tourist destination and was on my wish list with no chance of fitting it in. Sincere thanks to the club for inviting me along. The ride out across the country to the ferry was very nice indeed. Five bikes and seven people, meeting others along the way. It is always special a gang of bikers riding onto a ferry, helping each other lash their machines to the deck plates, secure gear, and head for the cafeteria. Three hours to chill, before the hot sun of Gotland and a busy rally/meet sight.
Lots of bikes and smiling faces. Riders of all ages enjoying what we do. More a culture than a hobby. We are one tribe across all countries. It was a long weekend and if the bucket loos, heat, cold water washing, ever got us down, spare a thought for the people who put it together for us, and their wonderful hospitality. Thank you Gotland MCK.
I described the lightning strike which I remember vividly, to avoid describing the horrendous hang over I had the day before, after foolishly drinking with the Danish contingent. :-) We will do it again sometime Henrik !! I can wear one of those biker jackets with the integral airbag. I will also leave my tent open so that I don't have to figure out how it works.
Browsing around the walled town of Visby, and the ride out on Sunday with Ernst, Östen and Per. Wonderful memories. Also a night of Blues and dancing the night away with a lady biker with style. I think your bike looks wicked with the cherry blossom on the tank. I was deeply impressed.
I am now back at Domsand, Bankeryd. I have some serious sleep to catch up on. I think I have done my last crowded camp site or dorm. Flash packing and soft beds from now on. Quiet time with friends for a few days. Plan the trip home across Germany. Head home satisfied is the plan. I haven't finished here yet though. Time to relax, watch the harbour, think about that book I have never written. Would people read the rubbish I write?
Drowned Rat
After two nights on a crowded campsight, and after walking the hills, and enjoying an afternoon on a boat on the fjord, I moved on in steady rain. I had two days to get back to Jönköping (notice the Swedish keyboard? Thanks Ernst), that meant I needed a minimum of 200miles today. Mostly I got away with it, but at tea time north of Oslo I got drowned. My gear stood up well, mostly. My gloves would take two days to dry out. I carry spare gloves under the saddle.
One way or another we are carrying injuries. My right ankle got chewed to pieces by midges, and infected. I needed to get to a pharmacy to sort it out. Elsa was running low on oil, but that is all it is I hope. I smelled the clutch a couple of times after the Trollstigen, but not since I topped her up. The worst casualty is Jane. The bluetooth in the helmet got soaked and stopped working. When I tried to remove it from the helmet, glued joints gave way. Jane is now totally mute. You should be careful what you wish for. I have vision only now for the rest of the trip. I better concentrate on speed limits. I see a trip to a dealer upon my return, warrenty in hand.
One way or another we are carrying injuries. My right ankle got chewed to pieces by midges, and infected. I needed to get to a pharmacy to sort it out. Elsa was running low on oil, but that is all it is I hope. I smelled the clutch a couple of times after the Trollstigen, but not since I topped her up. The worst casualty is Jane. The bluetooth in the helmet got soaked and stopped working. When I tried to remove it from the helmet, glued joints gave way. Jane is now totally mute. You should be careful what you wish for. I have vision only now for the rest of the trip. I better concentrate on speed limits. I see a trip to a dealer upon my return, warrenty in hand.
The Trollstigen
It was in the Trollstigen pass that it all finally came together. We became the two wheeled cyborg. The first time a saw the pass I just slowed to a stop and muttered "oh shit". I have ridden the passes of the Alps and northern Spain, but the Trollstigen is unique. It is a perfect staircase up the near vertical face of a cliff. You can see every riser from the bottom, with the tour bus and campers making their way up it like toys on a children's miniature layout. Honestly I would have been more confident with a rope and climbing gear. It was one of the riding highlights of my tour. I came here to do this. First I took a ten minute rest to allow a tour bus to climb the ladder. Two campers vans were arriving, so I set off. On every hairpin the bike was horizontal. On a big tourer I got close to getting my knee down. The big boxer engine growled, booming off the rock face, and stuck behind a van the clutch burned a little. I made an unavoidable overtake which should have been hairy, but really thought nothing. Thinking would have undone me. I would have hesitated and stalled out. My BMW horn stopped one bus reversing onto me, then the hill start from hell. Elsa howled her displeasure. Jane's maps in the cockpit provided radar like views aiding and giving confidence. If I was thinking at all it was only spatial awareness. Angle of attack, speed, time off arrival. Then I reached the top. I flew by the seat of my pants. Gift shops and ice. I stopped to get the badge for the bike to prove we were here. At this point I met the only other bike I have seen with a UK plate. More lunatics let out of the asylum!
It doesn't matter which way you approach Geiranger, it is spectacular. Deep and sheer, Geiranger fjord is the most dramatic. You can ride from fjord to fjord and it doesn't get any better. Exhausted again I took a cabin for two nights. Tomorrow involves walking boots and a boat to cruise the fjord.
The Sexty Fear
Thanks Paul. I'm writing some retrospectively to catch up. So much has happened. Biker rally Gotland later.
Jane, my GPS has been loosing her English. The Sexty Fear is the name of the road which I know as the Atlantic road. Sexty Fear is how she now says 64. Worse still Vatta and I are learning our Norwegian from her. We now use Norweglish!!
The Atlantic road is one of those must drive biker roads. It is a small section of the journey between Kristiansund and Molde, a real feat of engineering. Bridges linking tiny islets out into the Atlantic. Some of these Bridges are short but high, allowing ships to pass. There is a Wow around every corner. If you are out this way on two wheels, the Atlantic road is a must have. The whole length has only been open a couple of years.
I
Jane, my GPS has been loosing her English. The Sexty Fear is the name of the road which I know as the Atlantic road. Sexty Fear is how she now says 64. Worse still Vatta and I are learning our Norwegian from her. We now use Norweglish!!
The Atlantic road is one of those must drive biker roads. It is a small section of the journey between Kristiansund and Molde, a real feat of engineering. Bridges linking tiny islets out into the Atlantic. Some of these Bridges are short but high, allowing ships to pass. There is a Wow around every corner. If you are out this way on two wheels, the Atlantic road is a must have. The whole length has only been open a couple of years.
I
I mentioned a Swedish biker, Bjorn last time, and his help when I was exhausted on the road south. This day I repaid him. On my way into Kritiansund I saw him standing listless beside his BMW at a closed filling station. I waved, he waived back but didn't look too good. I slowed, and pulled a very showy "U ey" and went back to him. He was in the same shape I had been the previous day. The station was closed so no coffee. No problem. I had a flask of hot strong English tea. Not his drink, but today it was welcome. Once he was revived enough we rode together, me keeping an eye on him, until we reached a ferry across a Fjord. Saturday services gave us a long rest, and at last the coffee he wanted. He continued on the Alesund with me waving goodbye, turning for Kristiansund and the beginning of the Atlantic road.
A very tired Bjorn.
According to Jane our next road is the Sexty Today ??
Friday, 16 July 2010
Update from Gotland Island
Hi from Kevin's Press Officer.
Kevin has had no Internet access since Sunday. Kevin is at a motorcycle rally on the Island of Gotland with the Jonkoping motorcycle gang.
Kevin may get a prize for the "Furthest travelled to the event" category.
More news from Kevin in a couple of days.
Kev's Press Officer
Kevin has had no Internet access since Sunday. Kevin is at a motorcycle rally on the Island of Gotland with the Jonkoping motorcycle gang.
Kevin may get a prize for the "Furthest travelled to the event" category.
More news from Kevin in a couple of days.
Kev's Press Officer
Sunday, 11 July 2010
Riding the Midnight Sun
The Finns set off early for Abisco. I continued at a leisurely pace onto the Lofoten Islands. I was taking time out drinking tea and map reading, when Thomas rolled in on an old K series BMW. Another middle aged Swedish rider with time to play. We were joined by another Beemer with a Swedish couple on board. An impromptu rally almost. Out of the networking Thomas and I teamed up and sauntered the length of the islands together through sunshine and showers. The Lofotens are truly stunning. Don't pass up an opportunity to visit. Into the evening we explored, taking pictures. We had the idea of sharing a cabin and catching a morning sailing on the Bodo ferry. Checking out the ferry terminal Thomas announced that he thought we should jump on the boat, then ride south through the night in the sunshine. Since I had an invite to go on holiday to Gotland with VBMC next week, and I felt finished with the Lofotens (without appropriate company the romance of the place was of no use to me), so on an impulse we got on the boat.
Standing alone on the rolling deck of a ship bound for Bodo, the midnight sun literally on my face. If my body felt the cold, my mind did not register it. Thomas was sound asleep on a row of seats inside. I hadn't managed that. We set off across the southern Arctic landscape at 00:30, and rode until 02:15. I could go no further and had to sleep. I liked Thomas but we had been out of sync for hours. He was fit to ride and wanted to continue. I could not. I erected my tiny tent while he brewed us both a coffee. We talked and finished our drinks, said our goodbyes, then he rode off south on the E6, and I crawled into my bed.
As rough camping goes it was very good indeed. A picnic area on the outskirts of a village that clearly care about it, judging by the flower boarders. Heavy wooden tables and benches and a rest room with hot water and a socket to recharge my helmet. I could want for no more. I awoke at 06:00 rested, and enjoyed a gypsy breakfast. Refreshed I set off for Trondheim to break the back of the journey down to the western Fjords. I needed big distances quick to allow me to meet the VBMC gang to go to Gotland. There was nothing I wanted from the middle part of Norway this trip. I needed 500 miles and had bagged only 85 through the night. By 15:00 I was trashed and 150 miles short. Bjorn watched me stagger off my bike at the filling station, bleary eyed and unshaven. He was riding an R1150RT. The predecessor to my machine. We shared a coffee or two, and he poured over maps and plans with me, concluding that the Atlantic road and the Trollstegen pass were very possible in one day on Sunday. Conversation and coffee revived me. Thanks to Bjorn for that. It was a favour I would return further down the road tomorrow. The camaraderie of the motorcycling community is absolutely stunning. I've said it before. We really are one tribe.
I got a cabin soon after that. A shower, shave at last, and a hot meal of "dog food" and potatoes, and 10 full hours sleep, and I was ready to continue to Kristiansund and the amazing Atlantic Road.
As rough camping goes it was very good indeed. A picnic area on the outskirts of a village that clearly care about it, judging by the flower boarders. Heavy wooden tables and benches and a rest room with hot water and a socket to recharge my helmet. I could want for no more. I awoke at 06:00 rested, and enjoyed a gypsy breakfast. Refreshed I set off for Trondheim to break the back of the journey down to the western Fjords. I needed big distances quick to allow me to meet the VBMC gang to go to Gotland. There was nothing I wanted from the middle part of Norway this trip. I needed 500 miles and had bagged only 85 through the night. By 15:00 I was trashed and 150 miles short. Bjorn watched me stagger off my bike at the filling station, bleary eyed and unshaven. He was riding an R1150RT. The predecessor to my machine. We shared a coffee or two, and he poured over maps and plans with me, concluding that the Atlantic road and the Trollstegen pass were very possible in one day on Sunday. Conversation and coffee revived me. Thanks to Bjorn for that. It was a favour I would return further down the road tomorrow. The camaraderie of the motorcycling community is absolutely stunning. I've said it before. We really are one tribe.
I got a cabin soon after that. A shower, shave at last, and a hot meal of "dog food" and potatoes, and 10 full hours sleep, and I was ready to continue to Kristiansund and the amazing Atlantic Road.
Reunions
The afternoon ride back to Alta was bleak, windy and cold, as you would expect. The local police had changed their site of operations, but were once again raking in the tourust dollars with a sneaky prone position in a ditch for the officer with the gadget. What seemed so unfair about my ticket was that anyone who knows me knows I don't speed. I boringly stick to the limit at home. I'm just not a chancer. I thought the limit was 90kph. It wasn't, it was 80. I made my case, but the officer was just not interested. He issued his ticket. No fixed fine, the sum is too big. 300 quid!
Cold, hungry and if I am honest, really tired, which was not great because I wanted another 100 miles before rough camping for the night. It was going to be a miserable post Cape night tonight. I was refueling the bike when one of the Finnish riders, Aki, drew up beside me. "HI. Do you have somewhere to stay?". They had a cabin close by and offered me one of the beds. I accepted without hesitation. That was the beginning of a fellowship that would last two nights sharing cabins, and one long, stunning day of motorcycling as a group, running for the temperate south. They were great company. easy going and patient when I would not increase my pace above the speed limit. Aki and Sami both had women and small children back home in Finland, who they clearly love very much. Two guys with a passout for a few days to hoon around Lapland on their bikes. They ride well to.
Saturday, 10 July 2010
The Cape
The last 22 miles across the island were precarious. Unprotected drops hidden in the cloud. It was blowing a gale. The fog lamps of the car in front led me in to the pay kiosk. 28 GBP, but worth it. I parked the Beemer with 2 arriving KTMs ridden by two Finnish bikers. We shouted greetings before the three of us leaned into the wind and struggled to find the famouse globe. Then fighting the wind again we made our way into the visitor centre for hot drinks, and with luck, a wait for the cloud to burn off. 
The cloud cleared and the wind dropped. We got the views of the cliffs and out across the Barrents Sea. At some point I lost track of the Finnish guys which felt a shame. I met up with an exuberant German biker who wanted to build a cairn to mark our presence here. So we did that laughing a lot on and off for quite a while. Germany are still in the world cup and we are not, as Vernon pointed out. But that is Ok.
It was hard to leave Nordkapp. I have spent so long planning for today. I have invested so much energy and emotion in coming here. I met my challenge. 3000 miles to the Cape, solo. Alone was the hardest part for sure. There were times when I wondered what I had let myself in for. But here I am with the sea breeze on my face, and a very large grin. I hope we raise lots of money for the hospice at Myton.
vernon and I rode the scary roads together back to town for a quick hot dog and coffee lunch, before I went off in search of a bank to pay for my "helicopter ride" . I shared my reality patch speeding fine with Vernon who is clearly as daft as me, because he got it. "Harry Potter rides a BMW!" He said.
It was hard to leave Nordkapp. I have spent so long planning for today. I have invested so much energy and emotion in coming here. I met my challenge. 3000 miles to the Cape, solo. Alone was the hardest part for sure. There were times when I wondered what I had let myself in for. But here I am with the sea breeze on my face, and a very large grin. I hope we raise lots of money for the hospice at Myton.
vernon and I rode the scary roads together back to town for a quick hot dog and coffee lunch, before I went off in search of a bank to pay for my "helicopter ride" . I shared my reality patch speeding fine with Vernon who is clearly as daft as me, because he got it. "Harry Potter rides a BMW!" He said.
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