The Long Road Home

A bad incident on the return journey has caused me problems for several days. I have recovered now and it doesn't seem right not to describe my final homeward journey. Bikers and drivers may want the information it provides.


A reminder of my outward route for comparison. Harwich - Esbjerg, west to east across central Denmark, crossing into Sweden at Malmo via the tunnel and bridge.


I left Domsand with a slippy clutch at 09:00 last Tuesday. As long as I didn't try to turn on too much power it was OK. Long slow overtakes only. My route took me south to the ferry Helsingborg - Helsinger, then due south to the ferry to Germany at Rodby. I broke my journey after 300 miles.


At 05:00 I was back on the road having had no sleep. I knew that tiredness would end my day early. I had 400 miles to the ferry, and probably couldn't make it. Most likely I was going to miss the ferry. I knocked off 100 miles fast, before an early breakfast with lots of black coffee. I ran on Adrenalin until that point. I washed and shaved at a truck stop then eased back into the North German motorway system. It is every bit as crowded and aggressive as the south of England. Torrential rain at 09:00 forced me off the road for 45 minutes during which genuine tiredness began to seep in. I reasoned that since there was no wind, the down poor wasn't slowing, and my understanding of the days weather was isolated showers, I should get into it and try to ride through it and out the other side. I got drowned for an hour, but I was right. I stopped for a brew at 11:00. Warm sunshine lifted the water off my outer suit as steam. I hadn't seen a service station in 40 miles and I needed caffeine. The solution was to boil up strong tea in a rest area, much to the delight of some other travellers, I was definitely being English. Another hour and lunch over the border into the Netherlands. Their motorways are as bad as the Germans and English. Northern Europe is getting very crowded.


Beyond lunch it got really hard. Another 50 miles and my eyes were closing. A stop for water and to walk around. Another 20 miles and I nodded off on the bike. I swooped, limped into a rest area where the Dutch truck driver watched over me. I slept in my leathers, flat on my back, on a grass verge near his truck. I was definitely on the edge at this point. I washed to wake myself up and finished the last 40 miles to the port. I missed a turning. GPS Jane is mute, and I couldn't make sense of her attempted corrections. A novel solution. I followed the signposts to the ferry !!

Fish and chips at the terminal were good, and only spoiled by a truly crazy Englishman who sat down at my little table on the pavement, and leaned into my face to enthusiastically reminisce about England. I told him I was very tired and in poor humour, and asked to be left with my fish and chips. He "skedaddled".

Lessons learnt. Ferries sap your energy and eat time. Even if there is a slight financial saving, a good bridge gets you on your way faster and fresher. The route home through Germany is a slog. The Danish route through Esbjerg is nice. For the sake of £50 I'll use the Esbjerg route when I return to Sweden. I need to find out if IKEA sell Senapsill!! I have acquired a taste for raw herrings apparently.

If you feel the need to do Nordkapp, do it! Watch your speed in Norway and be prepared for ridiculously low speeds for very long journeys. Take warm clothing, sun block and mosquito repellent. Would I go back? I've already been, so no, probably not. It was awesome though.

I have a couple of speaking engagements so will hopefully take funds raised for Myton over the £1000 eventually.